This is a guide to running speaker wire through the door molex and factory boot. I used 16awg OFC in my friend's GT. There may be a better way to do this but I did not see any other install do this, so here you are...
Requirements:
1) Helper (Stronger the better)
2) Drill/Dremel
3) Large nylon zip tie / Coat hanger wrapped in tape
4) Painter's Tape
5) Step Drill Bit / O-Rings
6) Socket wrench / sockets
7) Wire Cutters
8) Dish Soap or other lubricant
9) Electrical Tape
10) Safe place to put the door
Before working on any vehicle I always disconnect the negative terminal. I used zip-ties to keep it from drifting back toward the battery post, possibly making contact.
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1) Use painter's tape to protect the paint around the door jam and on the door itself. It is very easy to make light contact when putting the door back on. Do not skip this step!
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2) You need a helper for the door removal and installation. If you are very confident I suppose you could use a floor jack... Have your helper hold the door wherever they have the best grip (the door handle, top of window frame)
3) Remove the arm bolt along the inside of the door jam on the chassis. I believe this is 12mm.
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4) Remove the 4 hinge bolts from the door so that the hinges remain on the chassis. These are also 12mm. I removed the bolts from the top downward.
5) Pull the rubber boot out of the way (toward the door) and unclip the door molex by pulling up on the tab on the chassis side of the connector.
6) Place the door somewhere safe.
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6) This is the molex connector you will be removing. Allow the hate to envelope you as you see it in its entirety for the first time. Use a screwdriver to push the tabs in and push the molex into the cabin. Remove the plastic molex shroud using a screwdriver at the 3 indicated clip locations.
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7) The next 2 steps are only for the driver's side door
Disconnect all of the wiring that is in the way of the door molex loom. Some is in the kick panel, shown below.
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8) The others can be accessed through the fuse panel cover by the steering wheel. Disconnect these and do not worry about labeling as they are all unique and will easily be reconnected.
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9) Clip the factory wires and drill out the molex connector on both ends, the door and the chassis. The driver's side factory wiring colors on my friend's car were blue and red, in the top right of the connector, and the same location but with orange and green wires on the passenger side. You can pull the wires out with pliers, or simply drill it out. Be careful to not drill toward the other connections. Use a dremel if you have one to smooth out the area where the wiring will pass through. You will be drilling the molex connectors from within the cabin for the chassis side of the loom.
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Note: This picture is from the passenger side front door, showing the green and orange wires to remove
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There is plenty of room for 16awg to fit through the factory speaker wiring slots.
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10)Run the new speaker wire through the chassis side of the molex, re-install the plastic cover, then reroute the loom back to the door jam, pushing it through the opening so it is secure.
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11) Make your wire snake with a nylon zip-tie with the locking end cut off. Tape it to the new wiring coming from the door molex, so it can be fed through the boot. Disconnect the boot from both the molex and door. Apply dish soap liberally for lubrication in the boot.
12) Re-install the door. Have your helper hold the door in position while you quickly feed the wiring through the boot so that it can be pushed into the door. Push down on the locking mechanism to reconnect the molex then reconnect the boot to the chassis. Connect the hinges from the bottom up hand tight, then the arm. Use the socket wrench to tighten the bolts and realign the door.
13) Repeat the process for the passenger's side.
14) Bring the wire through the door's plastic. I used a step drill and O-ring.
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15) Connect the wire to the crossover if you have it mounted in the door.
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16) Enjoy your uninhibited high wattage speaker amp.
Requirements:
1) Helper (Stronger the better)
2) Drill/Dremel
3) Large nylon zip tie / Coat hanger wrapped in tape
4) Painter's Tape
5) Step Drill Bit / O-Rings
6) Socket wrench / sockets
7) Wire Cutters
8) Dish Soap or other lubricant
9) Electrical Tape
10) Safe place to put the door
Before working on any vehicle I always disconnect the negative terminal. I used zip-ties to keep it from drifting back toward the battery post, possibly making contact.
1) Use painter's tape to protect the paint around the door jam and on the door itself. It is very easy to make light contact when putting the door back on. Do not skip this step!
2) You need a helper for the door removal and installation. If you are very confident I suppose you could use a floor jack... Have your helper hold the door wherever they have the best grip (the door handle, top of window frame)
3) Remove the arm bolt along the inside of the door jam on the chassis. I believe this is 12mm.
4) Remove the 4 hinge bolts from the door so that the hinges remain on the chassis. These are also 12mm. I removed the bolts from the top downward.
5) Pull the rubber boot out of the way (toward the door) and unclip the door molex by pulling up on the tab on the chassis side of the connector.
6) Place the door somewhere safe.
6) This is the molex connector you will be removing. Allow the hate to envelope you as you see it in its entirety for the first time. Use a screwdriver to push the tabs in and push the molex into the cabin. Remove the plastic molex shroud using a screwdriver at the 3 indicated clip locations.
7) The next 2 steps are only for the driver's side door
Disconnect all of the wiring that is in the way of the door molex loom. Some is in the kick panel, shown below.
8) The others can be accessed through the fuse panel cover by the steering wheel. Disconnect these and do not worry about labeling as they are all unique and will easily be reconnected.
9) Clip the factory wires and drill out the molex connector on both ends, the door and the chassis. The driver's side factory wiring colors on my friend's car were blue and red, in the top right of the connector, and the same location but with orange and green wires on the passenger side. You can pull the wires out with pliers, or simply drill it out. Be careful to not drill toward the other connections. Use a dremel if you have one to smooth out the area where the wiring will pass through. You will be drilling the molex connectors from within the cabin for the chassis side of the loom.
Note: This picture is from the passenger side front door, showing the green and orange wires to remove
There is plenty of room for 16awg to fit through the factory speaker wiring slots.
10)Run the new speaker wire through the chassis side of the molex, re-install the plastic cover, then reroute the loom back to the door jam, pushing it through the opening so it is secure.
11) Make your wire snake with a nylon zip-tie with the locking end cut off. Tape it to the new wiring coming from the door molex, so it can be fed through the boot. Disconnect the boot from both the molex and door. Apply dish soap liberally for lubrication in the boot.
12) Re-install the door. Have your helper hold the door in position while you quickly feed the wiring through the boot so that it can be pushed into the door. Push down on the locking mechanism to reconnect the molex then reconnect the boot to the chassis. Connect the hinges from the bottom up hand tight, then the arm. Use the socket wrench to tighten the bolts and realign the door.
13) Repeat the process for the passenger's side.
14) Bring the wire through the door's plastic. I used a step drill and O-ring.
15) Connect the wire to the crossover if you have it mounted in the door.
16) Enjoy your uninhibited high wattage speaker amp.